Men's DIY Thread


Withstand in the evil day. Eph 6:13
I thought it would be cool to create a DIY thread with projects that you guys are working on or have accomplished in the recent past.

Please try to include the following in your posts:
  1. Problem/symptoms.
  2. Diagnosis or steps to diagnose if applicable.
  3. Parts needed and source if desired.
  4. Steps to complete.
  5. Finished product.
  6. Future maintenance required to keep the problem from reoccurring if applicable.
  7. Pictures if available.
I will be adding some soon to get us started.

The posts can be as casual or as formal as you desire. I am hoping this thread will become a good resource and inspire others to DIY.

Blessings in Christ!

Tall Timbers

Imperfect but forgiven
Problem/symptoms: Standing trees that are close enough to fall on the house if they fall. Some of those are dying.

Diagnosis or steps to diagnose if applicable: The dying trees that are close enough to the house should be cut down to prevent future damage to the house. The tip on their condition are branches at the top of the tree are void of leaves. These are birch trees.

Parts needed and source if desired: Chainsaw, strap with a wrenching device.

Steps to complete: Notch the tree in the direction I wish for it to fall. Connect the strap as far up on the tree as I can reach from a ladder leaning up against it. Put other end of strap around a healthy tree that stands approx in the direction I want the tree to fall. Tighten up the strap, pulling the tree in the direction I want it to fall. Run the chainsaw through the tree until it starts to fall. Back away and watch it fall.

Finished product: Cut the branches from the trunk, cut the trunk into approx 18" lengths. Split the lengths, and stack the wood in the shed for future wood stove fuel.

I thought of this because a couple of days ago I received some snail junk mail that advised me that a tree cutting service was going to be in my area and give them a call if I needed their service... It can be very expensive to have someone come out and cut down trees, especially if they're close to a building. I have no problem doing it myself.

There was one tree that I needed to cut down years ago. It was a massive white spruce that was close to the house and leaning in that direction. The diameter of the base was around 5 feet. I got my friend who's a log home builder to come help me with that one. He shimmied up the tree like a monkey and attached two straps up pretty high. I secured the other ends of the straps to trees slightly up hill from where I wanted this behemoth to fall. My friend notched the tree and then he'd cut a little and I'd tighten up one strap and then the other. He'd cut some more, then I'd tighten the straps again until finally the tree was no longer leaning towards the house but leaning in the direction I wanted it to fall. We brought it down safely... Sometimes it's a good idea to have to people work this type of job...


Withstand in the evil day. Eph 6:13
Here is a short funny one I did in the past couple days.
  1. Problem/symptoms - I was leaning over the tub the other day getting the bath ready for the kids and I leaned on the soap holder and it fell off the wall.
  2. Diagnosis - The soap holder was hanging on by adhesive and silicone so I knew it was broken lol.
  3. Parts needed and source if desired - Construction adhesive (loctite), silicone adhesive in a squeeze tube (easiest and what I had on hand), caulking gun (for construction adhesive), razor blade, masking tape, old sponge, wet rag.
  4. Steps to complete - Cut excess adhesive/silicone from around the soap holder and tile, clean area, apply construction adhesive liberally to back of holder & wall, place soap holder back in place, apply pressure, hold for a few minutes, apply masking tape to hold it temporarily to the wall and allow the adhesive to cure. Next day clean around the joint of the soap holder with razor blade, cut any excess material, wipe clean, let dry. After dry, apply silicone bead to joint, wet finger and rub along silicone bead to finish, wipe any excess with wet rag, let dry.
  5. Finished product - Looked pretty good, wife approved, held soap again, side note - cleaning old silicone and adhesive is a chore, needless to say.
  6. Future maintenance required to keep the problem from reoccurring if applicable - Don't lean on soap holder ha!
I had all of the materials needed on hand. I have done some work in the past few years sealing, adhering, and caulking things for paint jobs and other projects so I had a box of everything I needed. I acquired everything from the big orange box store over a few years, I believe.

Armor of Light

Praising my Savior all the day long!
Problem/symptom - deteriorated bathroom wall paneling around bathtub
Parts/products need to resolve- cutting shears, cordless driver, 1/2" zinc self driving pan head screws, tube of 100% silicone, wood planks, telescopic painters poles, can of spray paint, painters tarp, tape
Steps 4, 5 and 6- as follows:
I have an old house and always have to fix or update something and this time it was the the walls around the bath tub. The walls had the original treated paneling that were getting fat swelling from moisture and splitting in several areas. I bought new paneling and replaced the old on all 3 sides of the tub. Not 8 months later I noticed areas of discoloring and swelling and I really was not excited about tearing out paneling and installing new again so I went another direction. There is a 4' x 8' waterproof sheeting product that you can buy to install on walls and I had some in the garage from previous project. I cut a 24" tall strip that was the length of the 3 sides of the tub with some good shears. I ran a heavy bead of 100% silicone along all edges that would be against the wall and use some self driving 1/2" zinc pan head screws and my Rigid cordless drill to drive them through the material into the wall every 8" along the top edge keeping it tight so no riffles in the material. I have a few telescopic painters poles and they are very handy for holding things in place. I placed a couple against the opposite side of the tub walls and extended them tightly against a 1"x3" plank about an inch above the bottom of waterproof material along the tub. Then ran a heavy bead of silicone on the entire bottom of the waterproof material and top rim of tub. After the silicone was cured I put one of my painters tarps in the tub and taped it off so I could paint the top half inch of the water proof material , the smoothed silicone seam and the screw heads white to match the wall. That was 18 months ago and there is no problem with the wall, there is no mold anywhere and it looks great, and it will last until we can afford to have the bathroom remodeled with new tub/shower install , and it was a cheap fix and not hard to do. Also installed a chrome basket to hold all the bottles of soft soap/shampoo/conditioner/ shaving cream into the wall with same pan head screws and used silicone to keep water from entering inner wall.


Withstand in the evil day. Eph 6:13
  1. Problem/symptoms - Storm season is starting and I live on the edge of the grid (slow power restoration) so I pulled out my (20 year old) Briggs Powerboss portable generator last week to crank it up and make sure it was working. It wouldn't run.
  2. Diagnosis - The motor would not run after I tried to start it so I sprayed some starter fluid in the carburetor and it started right up. This told me the problem was the carburetor since starter fluid pretty much bypasses the carb. Did some research online to see what the carb was and common failure issues.
  3. Parts needed and source if desired - I ordered a cheap knock-off carb and gasket kit from ebay but when it came in it was so cheap feeling that I did not have the heart to replace the 20 year old much higher quality original that was already on the generator, so I attempted a repair and kept the cheap one as a spare for parts. I used a very thin copper wire, abrasive pipe cleaner, non-ethanol gasoline, and ordered a nice Amrad (made in the USA) 40uf run capacitor off ebay (part number USA2215 to be exact).
  4. Steps to complete - I took apart the carburetor and stripped one of the bowl screws (it was on so tight, used a vice-grip to remove it) so I had to replace it with two screws from Ace hardware. After taking the carb apart I saw the main highspeed jet was completely clogged and you could not see through it. So I took my thin copper wire and stuck it through and wiggled it around for a minute or so to loosen any debris. After doing so, the jet cleared so I ran a pipe cleaner through all of the openings I could see to finish cleaning the carb. After reassembly, I attempted to start the generator again and it started to run without any problems. I plugged a space heater into the generator to put a load on it and let it run for about 45 minutes. After about 45 minutes of working outside around the running generator I heard an audible 'pop' come from the generator, which was still running, so I came over to inspect. I found the space heater was not running anymore so no power was being produced. After testing the space heater on a wall outlet to find that it was still working, I then opened the alternator cabinet where the receptacles are housed. Behind the cover I noticed the problem which was a large 40uf run capacitor that was visibly damaged with the top cover where the connections are located, being popped off. As mentioned above, I headed back online to buy a capacitor with matching specs. Later that week when it came in I reinstalled it, modifying the unit slightly by mounting it on the exterior of the housing (because it would not fit as it was slightly larger and much better quality than the original). After securing the cap, making the connections and thoroughly insulating and zip-tying them, I fired the generator back up. Power was back on so I ran the generator for another 45 minutes to run the fuel tank dry.
  5. Finished product - The generator is functioning well with an output of 60hz, 128V on the standard receptacles and 258V on the 10-30 (dryer) receptacle. It is running hot, which I remember it always had, and I am ok with it because I would rather it run a little high than too low.
  6. Future maintenance required to keep the problem from reoccurring if applicable - Keep the carb clean, use non-ethanol gas when testing and running the generator every season. Last season I used regular gas because that is what I had on hand and I think that is what gummed up the carburetor. In the future I will use non-ethanol because it is better for carbs and I have it on hand for my lawnmowers and small engines now. I have another capacitor as a spare in case anything happens to the one I installed. This is a good idea considering if it fails it will take the generator out of service.
All together, parts and shipping including spares probably cost me about $75. This is pretty good because the local small engine shop charges $100 just to look at your equipment.

Note - I would highly recommend Amrad capacitors for fixing AC units as well (common fail point). I have used them in the past and this is what gave me the idea to use it on my generator. God bless!
Last edited: