24-foot waves coming to Northern California beaches: 'It's going to look gnarly'

Lovin Jesus

Well-Known Member
https://www.sfgate.com/weather/article/high-surf-advisory-waves-big-California-Bay-Area-15707446.php

A storm diving down from the Gulf of Alaska into Northern California is delivering a large northwest swell that is forecast to arrive on Bay Area beaches Friday.

The National Weather Service issued a High Surf Advisory for Friday afternoon through Saturday morning warning of shoreline breaking waves of 18 to 24 feet.

Weather service forecaster Drew Peterson explains that the situation will be especially dangerous because gale-force onshore winds are expected to be blowing out at sea.

"The thing that will be interesting with this one is the wind will be at the back of the waves for the most part," Peterson said. "As this energy comes to the coastline, it will push the waves over. We’re not looking at those beautiful picturesque waves. It’s going to look gnarly out there. Foamy and white. The water level is going to be really high."

With the winds blowing and a shallow summer beach profile, the waves will be breaking farther up the beach than usual.

We call that coastal run-up," said Peterson. "The threat with that is if people are on the beach and we get a bigger wave coming in and running way up the beach, it can knock people over and if it knocks them over it, can pull them into the ocean."

While the weather service is predicting waves up to 24 feet high to the south of Santa Cruz and to the north of Point Reyes, Peterson said the Bay Area will be protected from the biggest breakers. Northwest-facing beaches such as S.F.'s Ocean Beach and Montara Beach near Half Moon Bay could see waves of 16 to 20 feet.

Rip currents are also expected to be dangerous at Northern California beaches.

"Individuals are encouraged to be vigilant of their surroundings if on or near the coastline and should never turn their back to the ocean," the weather service warned.
 

Endangered

Well-Known Member
I learned to surf in high school on a 9'6" beat up Hobie. It weighed a ton and after an hour in the surf I would have to drag it back to my car.
I learned in FL so the biggest wave I have ever ridden is 4'. I think 20'+ waves would scare me so.much that I wouldn't even try. But I would love to sit on the shore and watch some younger surfers conquer those waves.
 

Endangered

Well-Known Member
To me the most exhilarating part of surfing is the moment the wave catches your board. At that moment the wave and the ocean are moving you. Surfing is a very enjoyable sport because you feel part of the wave and part of the ocean. Surfing is a mix of personal control and being at one with the earth and ocean.
I like football and Nascar and drag racing and baseball. But surfing is a unique blend of skill and nature. Nothing like any if the other sports.
I have surfed on and off for over 50 years. I'm still not very good at it. But I still get a super rush every time the wave picks up the board.
Surfing is a very unique sport. Once you ride the board for the first time you just may get hooked for life.
 

Kerbluey

Well-Known Member
I learned to surf in high school on a 9'6" beat up Hobie. It weighed a ton and after an hour in the surf I would have to drag it back to my car.
I learned in FL so the biggest wave I have ever ridden is 4'. I think 20'+ waves would scare me so.much that I wouldn't even try. But I would love to sit on the shore and watch some younger surfers conquer those waves.

Where did you live? I grew up in Florida. I never surfed, but the beach was my second home. When we were young we’d spend almost every day at Clearwater Beach. Later we moved near Gainesville, but we still went to the east coast every chance we got. Now the gulf up near Destin is my favorite place, although we live in the Midwest.
 

3 Nails 4 Given

Sinner saved by the blood of Jesus
After a 8ft Bull Shark bumped me with his snout then brushed down my bare leg in Daytona, I lost my desire to surf.

After I went up on the pier and watched how many sharks were swimming around the area, I realized the surfers were not what was being pointed out, it was all the sharks.

They don’t bother me as bad when I’m scuba diving. They appear more curious about you than when your floating near the surface.
 

Endangered

Well-Known Member
Kerbluey ... the Gulf Coast beaches are some of the most beautiful in the world. But there are hardly any waves in the Gulf. The east coast has waves as far south as Vero Beach. I learned at Crescent Beach and Cocoa Beach. East Coast waves are big enough to surf but are still little munchkins compared with Cal and Hawaii.
 

pixelpusher

Well-Known Member
After a 8ft Bull Shark bumped me with his snout then brushed down my bare leg in Daytona, I lost my desire to surf.

After I went up on the pier and watched how many sharks were swimming around the area, I realized the surfers were not what was being pointed out, it was all the sharks.

They don’t bother me as bad when I’m scuba diving. They appear more curious about you than when your floating near the surface.
Which is why I prefer kayaks. At least a little something of a candy shell between me and the landlord. And I have a stick. Lol. The shark trackers tracked a 12‘, 900lb Great White named Ironsides through our area a few days ago, all the way up to the mouth of the Neuse River. Even a test nibble from that fish would be bad.
 

Tall Timbers

Imperfect but forgiven
We call that coastal run-up," said Peterson. "The threat with that is if people are on the beach and we get a bigger wave coming in and running way up the beach, it can knock people over and if it knocks them over it, can pull them into the ocean."

Maybe newsome will declare an emergency and order everyone in the state to stay indoors to protect them from getting sucked into the ocean if they're at the beach and not paying enough attention...
 

Lovin Jesus

Well-Known Member
Maybe newsome will declare an emergency and order everyone in the state to stay indoors to protect them from getting sucked into the ocean if they're at the beach and not paying enough attention...

But but, he thinks he's Moses! He thinks he's leading the Californians across the ocean waves to save us, to save the planet . There's enough waves so he Has to part those waves got us to cross because he dumps all of our good water into the ocean instead of putting it in our reservoirs, that's why we have our farmers crops dying, no water, a"Drought", the Governor nuisance Is worried about climate change, so he would rather waste our good water we get " naturally " from our melted snow by dumping it into the ocean instead of fix the drought problem, while at the same time tell us we cant shower and wash clothes on the same day and tell us how long to shower, tell us we are only allowed to use so many gallons of water per day or be fined, whether you are a family of one or six. There's articles posted in the California drought thread. Yep thats our Governor Nuisance.

https://www.cagw.org/thewastewatcher/water-wars-man-made-drought
 

ChildofLight

Well-Known Member
But but, he thinks he's Moses! He thinks he's leading the Californians across the ocean waves to save us, to save the planet . There's enough waves so he Has to part those waves got us to cross because he dumps all of our good water into the ocean instead of putting it in our reservoirs, that's why we have our farmers crops dying, no water, a"Drought", the Governor nuisance Is worried about climate change, so he would rather waste our good water we get " naturally " from our melted snow by dumping it into the ocean instead of fix the drought problem, while at the same time tell us we cant shower and wash clothes on the same day and tell us how long to shower, tell us we are only allowed to use so many gallons of water per day or be fined, whether you are a family of one or six. There's articles posted in the California drought thread. Yep thats our Governor Nuisance.

https://www.cagw.org/thewastewatcher/water-wars-man-made-drought
Is God throwing that water back? The water Newsome is dumping in the ocean. Sounds like Newsome is creating the climate change. It’s all his fault.
 
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